Introduction to Volnay
The village of Volnay is a quick right turn off the D973. Rue de la Barre points right up to the church, and a half dozen brand name wineries are tucked into little corners but a stone’s throw away.
There are only two restaurants in town, and the wine lists don’t include anything from further than a few hundred meters away. With Marquis d’Angerville, Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, and Michel Lafarge hiding in their cellars next door, there’s no need.
Volnay represents the final hurrah for red wine in the Cote d’Or, as the grapes turn predominantly white further south. There are no longer any Grand Cru sites here, but the 1er Cru in Volnay proves that Pinot Noir can thrive here. The wines are elegant and aromatic, and local limestone provides a bright acidity and freshness.
Volnay is typically compared to its northerly neighbor Pommard, where the wines are known to be more powerful and structured. The wines here are more supple and resembling those of Cotes de Nuits regions like Chambolle-Musigny or Vosne-Romanee.
While many can be enjoyed young-ish, most of the 1er cru sites are producing vins de garde. The siting is perfect, with well drained and steep slopes that face to the south east. The finesse and structure allows them to stand up to roasted and braised meats, particularly game.
The appellation was officially ensconced in 1937, but wine has been produced here for over a millenia. Louis the XI was known to be an avid fan, and owned vineyards here. A combination of clay on the topsoil and bedrock underneath creates the perfect balance.
What to Drink
- Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs, 2021
- Marquis d’Angerville is synonymous with Volnay, producing traditionally made wine from old vines in the best climats. This monopole displays the elegance and complexity the winery is known for, sitting at the highest elevation on a steep and chalky slope.
- The winery is known for its low intervention production methods to create the perfect balance and extract fine tannins.
- Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu, 2020
- While this domaine is known for Meursault, and the vineyard actually lies in the commune of Meursalt, this wine is distinctly Volnay. It is predominantly old vines, which provide a deep ripe cherry flavor balanced by the minerality.
- Using up to one third new oak in the barrels, the intensity and lushness of Volnay is allowed to shine.
- Bitouzet-Prieur, Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans, 2017
- Bitouzet-Prieur is classic Burgundy in every sense. Their traditional organic methods, native yeast fermentation, and barrique aging produces a perfectly “typique” Volnay. This cru is sited right in the center of the region (the name means “middle” in old French) and is the perfect site from which to extract the finesse of the terroir.
Where to Eat
- L’Agastache
- A casual atmosphere in a sleepy town belies the quality of cooking produced here. Exceptionally local ingredients and beverages marry perfectly. The menu is constantly in flux, reflective of the season.
- 1 Rue de la Cave, 21190 Volnay, France
- A casual atmosphere in a sleepy town belies the quality of cooking produced here. Exceptionally local ingredients and beverages marry perfectly. The menu is constantly in flux, reflective of the season.
